Frequently asked questions
This section is designed as a practical shrimp-keeping wiki for new and intermediate keepers. Guidance is intentionally conservative, especially around tank maturity, medication, and fish compatibility.
Beginner FAQ
A larger water volume is usually more forgiving than a tiny nano tank. Many keepers start around 20 to 30 litres or more because stability is easier, maintenance mistakes are diluted, and there is more room for moss, cover, and biofilm.
That depends on the shrimp you plan to keep. Neocaridina are often kept successfully in stable, suitable tap water where it is shrimp-safe, while many Caridina setups rely on RO or deionised water remineralised to a known target. The goal is not just the right number but repeatable consistency.
Most commonly kept freshwater shrimp do best in a stable, moderate range rather than a hot tropical setup. Higher temperatures can increase stress, speed up metabolism, and reduce oxygen availability. Match the species profile and prioritise consistency.
Gentle filtration with plenty of biological surface area is usually best. Sponge filters and shrimp-safe intakes are popular because shrimplets are protected and flow is easier to manage. Very strong suction without a guard can be risky for young shrimp.
Very important. Shrimp are sensitive to low oxygen, especially in warm tanks, overstocked setups, or aquariums with heavy biofilm and decaying organics. Good surface movement and sensible stocking help a lot.
Choose substrate around the shrimp type and the planted style you want. Inert substrates are common for Neocaridina-style setups, while buffering active soils are often used for Caridina. Avoid changing substrate chemistry without understanding how it affects pH, KH, and minerals.
Mosses, epiphytes, floating plants, and fine cover are especially useful because they increase grazing area and hide shrimplets. Plant choice should also suit your light, fertiliser routine, and maintenance habits.
Choose hardscape that adds surface area and shelter without creating dangerous traps. Wood, shrimp-safe stone, leaf litter, botanicals, moss-covered features, and simple caves are usually more helpful than flashy ornaments with tight gaps.
Yes. Leaf litter such as Indian almond leaves, guava leaves, or other shrimp-safe botanicals can provide cover, grazing surfaces, and natural-looking structure. Add them gradually and watch how the tank reacts rather than dumping in large amounts at once.
Shrimp are poor candidates for cycling a new aquarium. They do best when ammonia and nitrite have already settled at zero and the tank has had time to mature beyond the first basic cycle. Many beginner losses come from adding shrimp too soon.
Hardier Neocaridina lines are usually the safer first step because they can be more forgiving in a well-maintained beginner setup. More demanding Caridina should usually wait until you are comfortable with remineralisation, testing, and stable maintenance.
Sometimes, but use care. Shrimp keepers usually prefer simple, consistent fertiliser routines and avoid casual overdosing. Any change in fertiliser use should be gradual, especially where copper content, plant mass, or algae management is already a concern.
Not when it is merely wet and “cycled on paper”. Wait until the aquarium is stable, parameters are repeatable, biofilm has developed, and there are no recent swings from substrate, filter, or hardscape changes.
Most shrimp keepers favour steady, moderate changes over dramatic ones. Weekly or fortnightly small-to-moderate maintenance is common, but the right amount depends on stocking, feeding, plant mass, and how stable the tank already is. Stability matters more than aggressive cleaning.
Clean gently. Avoid deep strip-down maintenance that removes too much biofilm or shocks the colony. Siphon waste carefully, protect shrimplets from the siphon, rinse filter media only in old tank water where appropriate, and avoid turning every maintenance session into a major reset.
Feed less than most beginners think. Shrimp graze all day, so prepared food should support that natural grazing rather than overwhelm the tank. Remove leftovers when needed and adjust to colony size, tank maturity, and how quickly food disappears.
Sometimes, but never assume “peaceful fish” means shrimp-safe. Even small fish may eat shrimplets or stress moulting adults. A species-only shrimp tank is still the safest route if you want colony growth and predictable survival.
Most common small pest snails are more of a sign of excess food than a direct shrimp threat. Nerites, ramshorns, bladder snails, and trumpet snails can often coexist. The main concerns are overfeeding, aesthetics, and whether any medication will also affect wanted snails.
Sexing gets easier with age and depends on the species and grade. Females are often larger, deeper-bodied, and may show a saddle more clearly; males are often slimmer and smaller. Juveniles are much harder to sex reliably, so small groups should never be sold or expected as exact ratios.
Fenbendazole-based treatments are commonly discussed for planaria and hydra, but they can affect snails and other non-target invertebrates. Dose guidance varies by product strength, so treat cautiously, verify the active ingredient, and expect follow-up water changes and carbon if needed. Conservative prevention through feeding control and quarantine is always safer than casual treatment.
Delivery FAQ
Start in My Account where the order status, shipping method, and any tracking link are shown. If the order has already been dispatched, the customer-side page is the fastest place to check progress before contacting support.
The checkout is structured for Stripe and PayPal. Available methods can depend on current site configuration, but customers should see the active payment choices clearly at checkout before completing the order.
Include your order number, the email used for the order, a clear summary of the issue, and any relevant photos where delivery, DOA, or damage is involved. This speeds up support and reduces back-and-forth.
Customers can review past orders, see order statuses, manage addresses, update profile details, control newsletter preferences, and manage account security. Cancellation is only available before dispatch.
Shrimp Health FAQ
Milky or opaque body tissue can indicate severe internal problems such as bacterial infection or tissue breakdown, especially if the shrimp is lethargic and deteriorates quickly. It is usually treated as a serious warning sign rather than something to watch casually.
Copepods, ostracods, detritus worms, and seed shrimp are often harmless signs of a biologically active tank. Hydra, planaria, vorticella, and visible external worms on shrimp deserve more attention. Correct identification matters before treatment.